We downsized the watermelon. What else did we quietly leave behind? The one that fed twelve There is a version of summer that most of us remember or have heard described, a table outside, a knife, and a watermelon so large it required two hands to carry and at least three people to finish. Seeds everywhere, juice running down wrists, everyone leaning in at the same time. The one you carry home alone That watermelon still exists. But increasingly it has been replaced by someth

Plateia Agiou Georgiou, Kypseli. The square's landmark is its bronze baroque lamppost, the Τρεις Έρωτες, three crowned Cupids rotating around a metal pole, believed to date to around 1900. There is a particular kind of confidence that comes from using a language in the moment you actually need it, not in an exercise or a repetition drill, but standing in front of a shop, reading a sign, ordering something, asking a question and getting an answer. That confidence is hard to cr